The “Outdoor” Classroom
“I’ve
had workshop participants tell me that they learn more by simply
watching me in the field for five minutes.”
By
Ira J. Schneller
Only so much about photography can be learned from classes, books
or even magazines. Despite my best attempts to communicate what
I know in carefully prepared lectures and these monthly columns,
I’ve had workshop participants tell me that they learn more
by simply watching me in the field for five minutes.
One
photo often isn't enough. “Why
are you taking so many pictures of the same flowers without changing
the composition?” someone asks. “Because the wind is
blowing.” “But won’t all your pictures be blurry?”
“Maybe. Maybe not.” One or two could be sharp enough
if I catch a moment between gusts. I’ll never know unless
I try.”
During
that evening’s critique session, I do have a sharp flower
picture from the effort. Of course it’s not 100 percent sharp
everywhere. It was composed to have the flowers with the shortest
stems, which move less in the wind, in the foreground, so that the
ones most apt to blur would be less obvious.
Graduated filters don't always vignette with a polarizer!
Another encounter in the field: “What lens are you using with
that graduated filter?” “My 17-35 mm at 17mm,”
I reply. “How can that be? All my wide angles below 24mm vignette
the corners with grad filters.”
“Not
if you buy an extra Cokin filter holder and trim it down to have
one filter slot instead of three and all four corners cut back so
they won’t get in your picture.”
“But
of course you aren’t using a polarizer!”
“I
am, but it’s not an off-the-shelf one. I fitted it to a 77mm
Cokin adapter ring. That way it works on my 17mm lens with a graduated
filter too.”
SLR
viewfinders are bidirectional. “Why do you shade
the eye piece with your hand when you are about to take a picture?”
“I
learned a long time ago that light travels both ways through a through-the-lens
camera. Light enters through the lens and the eye piece affecting
the exposure. It’s a two-way street.”
Tale
of a tripod. For more years than I’d like to admit,
the lowest joint of my tripod legs kept jamming up with dirt and
sand. It seemed to be an inevitable consequence of shooting in wet
or dirty places where that last joint sat on the ground whenever
the smallest legs weren’t extended. It turned out to be most
of the time, since using your tripod at the lowest possible setting
is always the most sturdy.
Then
one day I needed to set my tripod into a few inches of water at
Pecks Pond in the Pocono Mountains to frame just the right composition.
I extended the bottom legs just enough to keep the joints above
the water. When I went to put my tripod away, I decided not to close
up all the mud and sand into the joints, but to wait until I could
wash it off at home. As I congratulated myself for not messing up
the joints, I thought why not leave those lower legs extended a
few inches as standard practice. Virtually nothing from the ground
would ever be able to get into those joints again, and the tripod
wouldn’t lose much stability.
Last
autumn, however, I did get those lower joints fully wet on a cold
morning before a sunrise at Ricketts Glen State Park. A thick fog
was rolling in over Lake Jean and I was trying to catch a reflection.
I stood on the shore with my 17-35mm lens at 17mm, searching for
the perfect composition to encompass the broad cloud display. The
wind was blowing, and there were moving tree limbs along the shoreline
on both sides of my picture, no matter where I stood.
As
the light peaked, I had to make a fast decision. I could use a more
conventional 28mm focal length that would crop out the trees, but
lose the drama of the cloud display. I could shoot the wider scene
with blurred limbs. I could give up. Or…you guessed it: I
waded into the lake, shoes and all, and clunked my tripod long enough
to make an image that later became a prized print. Shivering for
a few minutes was worth it, and my tripod dried off like new.
Plan
ahead. When a situation has the potential to be fast-breaking,
the most important technical tip I can give is to begin with a “preflight.”
That’s what I call the process of placing everything in your
camera bag exactly where you always keep it, as well as checking
every setting on your camera in advance. If I fail to go through
this process, I inevitably grab a camera body that I’ve forgotten
to reset to the right ISO, forgotten to turn off the spot meter
setting or, worse yet, forgotten to reload film or a flash card.
That’s when being in the right place at the right time doesn’t
make any difference.
How
did I learn my bag of tricks? Many came from observing other photographers
at work. Back in the ‘70s when I started out, there weren’t
color nature photography workshops, and I never took a photography
class. I made a point to go out in the field with people more experienced
than I was, watch closely and ask the right questions.
____________________
As
always, if you have any questions or comments about this or other
photography subjects, contact me at
ijschneller@msn.com or call
215-781-6360.
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